April 26th, 2010

This is a story about the people you meet when you travel. Their faces etched in photographs vainly attempting to capture one moment forever. A desperate attempt to hold on to people and places that you will mostly likely never see again. They are fleeting moments and encounters — a glimpse when all is set and done.

When we travel, we run into memories that we hope to remember when we’re old and done with life. We hope to remember the people who were kind to us, who loved us despite not knowing why they shouldn’t.

Amidst the poverty, I have seen no despair. I’m afraid to lose the stories about the people I have met. I’m afraid to forget the faces, the words.

Mrs. Margaret was an older lady who worked at the Whim Plantation. Her hair was tightly wrapped in a tall, white scarf. The scalding heat of midday prompted me to walk inside the plantation house after a tour, just to ask is there was anywhere I could get water. Free water, because I’m a spoiled person who is used to getting free tab water, I guess.

Mrs. Margaret said there was no free water, but bottled water could be purchased from the gift shop. ‘Eh,” I said, lying “I don’t have any money.” The heat not being as debilitating as to make me part from money. Yet the comment was all that Mrs. Margaret needed to offer me a dollar to buy the water. So there I was, mortified that I had unintentionally created a situation in which I, the tourist, the traveled American, was receiving money from a local woman in St. Croix. My cries of refusal fell on deaf ears. The more I declined, the more she insisted, reproaching why I would so adamantly not I accept money from her. What was wrong with her money? Why should she not offer it to an overheated, seemingly poor student? She argued that she was a mother and grandmother, and she understood.

I took her $1.

She wished me a Happy Easter. Along the way, I’ve found people capable of uncompromising kindness to strangers who have no right to receive it, as I had no right to receive Mrs. Margarate’s $1. Yet I did, and when I thought about it later, I wondered about the zeal behind such actions, the dutiful faith to a being that has promised eternal salvation for a lifetime of kindness. Is religion what moves the wonderful people I’ve met? With a predominantly Catholic population, the Caribbean people are certain very religious. Almost every building in Samana, Dominican Republic, had writings painted on the outside of the houses or stores with saying like “Christ is good. He is coming”, “Christ is love. He is the reward.”

This is just one example of the stories I’ve thought about, remembering the people who I have met. There are so many.

I did not get a photo of Mrs. Margaret because I had to leave quickly, so she wouldn’t see me crying.

Here are my vain attempts at remembering people who I’ve met and places I’ve seen.

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More photos from sea

April 25th, 2010

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Photo taken by Jeff Schell (above). That’s me trying to, by the looks of it, ease the tops’l brace in the middle of a squall. Don’t that sound fancy?

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A view looking aft from the bowsprit. Disregard shirtless James.

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While in Dominica Republic, we went to Los Haitises. A forest full of mangroves, caves, islands. Amazing. Photo above also from Jeff.

The sailing part of this adventure has been hard, no doubt about it. My hands are calloused from hauling on lines. My body often hurts from exhaustion. Waking up for watches at 3 a.m. and finishing them up with Dawn Cleanup is not my idea of fun. I don’t think there is any student on board who hasn’t been frustrated by the amount of cleaning and exhausting work (mentally and physically).

There are moments when it seems that the mates take a perverse enjoyment in making you not have fun and piss you off. It’s hard to be talked to like you knew nothing of the world. Just because you might not know your way around this floating environment hardly means that you don’t know how to get by perfectly excellent in the real world.

I was trying to explain to someone what it was like to be in the middle of the ocean and looking at all the stars. It’s a sight I’ve never seen before — almost every inch of the sky seemingly covered in stars. Add the sound of the ocean as you glide through it, and it’s a mesmerizing sight.

And then just the other night, as the blood-red sun disappeared under the horizon, at least nine dolphins swam with us, pushed by a pressure wave created by the boat. Leaning over the rail and seeing that made me think of those moments that you pray to whatever force you believe in, that you might keep such a memory forever.

So despite the challenges, my adventure has been full of those moments.

Hopefully, I’ll have time to post some pictures from Port Antonio tomorrow.

Desde Republica Dominicana

April 16th, 2010

Hello there, still alive and having breakfast in Samana, Dominican Republic.

I’ve been living in another world. Seriously. It´s hard to explain how different life on board a moving ship can be. The rules are all different, from how you eat, to how you speak (it´s another language), to how you sleep, walk, shower, everything is done differently. And it’s easy to constantly feel like a total idiot.

But as you stumble on deck for night watch, and you look up at the starry sky. A sky so full of stars, that you cannot help but to stop for several minutes and wonder how you ever lived without experiencing it.

And then you have bow watch, which is an hour of standing at the very forward part of the boat, by yourself, communing with the wind and maybe God if you choose.

Those are the quiet moments in between taking down sails, often in the middle of the night, with nothing but a net separating you and the deep, black ocean.

I have so many stories to tell, and I´m doing my best to keep them in my journal to eventually share. I´ve met so many amazing people, and I´m often been moved by the kindness of random strangers who have nothing to gain but a shared moment with you. The only moment.

Don’t have much time, so for now I’ll leave you with some photos! Enjoy and catch you in Port Antonio, Jamaica maybe in about 10 days!

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Here you go Mel, a picture of me. Enjoying the water in St. Croix.

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Mother Cramer. She speaks to you!

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For my Lugano peeps. Hot Rum hat is on!

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This is what the saloon looks like. It’s where we eat and some sleep. You can see Tim B creeping out from his bunk. The tables are built on gimbals, which move the table back and forth with the movement on the boat. Pretty cool, but it can be nerve racking to see the table slope so much that its entire contents might end up on your lap.

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In St. Martin and in Dominican Republic

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Los Haitises. We went kayacking here. More picture later on!

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Super adorable kids in the mountains on the Dominican Republic. Notice crocs.

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Playa del Rincon

Alright, heading out to explore more of Samana, maybe get a little R&R. Lord knows we get very little of that while on the boat. But I’m becoming a complete sailor, from weather expert to getting some sea legs. PS, its down to two students (myself included) who have not gotten seasick. I think that is pretty good. We will see if I can hold on to that title.

Hello from St. Maarten/ St. Martin

April 5th, 2010

Lounging in St. Maarten at the moment. Sailing on the Cramer has been a lot of effing work, but at night, looking at the stars with NOTHING around. All worth it. At the moment I don’t have very many words, or time (we’re hijacking a computer from a resort we’re not staying at) to explain the amazing experiences so far.

St. Croix was beautiful, we went snorkeling with our Chief Scientist and we managed to fit 7 people in a Chevy Cavalier. That takes skills right there.

The adventure continues. I’ve learned a TON of stuff about sailing, knots, coils, and I’ve even been the steward for a day! I’m proud to report that I’m on the short list of people who haven’t gotten seasick yet. Ha! But we’ve got a lot of ocean to cover yet.

Right now, I’ve got a drink waiting for me at the bar, and an amazing beach.

Then back to ship and back to watches, cleaning heads (toilets) and washing dishes.

So it all evens out in the end. Haven’t had time to edit photos but maybe next port stop.

Exploring San Juan

March 30th, 2010

We did a lot today.

Started the day off well by hitching a ride with a lovely family of tourists, who let us share their cab for free. Then spent the whole day visiting several forts, such as San Cristobal and El Morro. Since the SEA program is called “Documenting Change in the Caribbean” we have been talking a lot about this region, and it was great to finally put things into perspective by actually being here. San Juan is just full of historical places dating back to the Spanish colonization, and to hear the tour guide mention things we’ve been discussing in class was a slightly fulfilling moment.

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We did a lot of walking around Old San Juan. Just gorgeous.

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We also saw a lady get run over, and were overall tourists. Jamaica Kincaid would be ashamed. But I’m happy to report that we did stay and ate at local places. Well, except when Di and I crashed the Marriott’s pool. Good times.

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