Los Haitises National Park, Dominican Republic

June 28th, 2010

On our first day anchored in Samana Bay, we were picked up early for a tour of Los Haitises National Park. Los Haitises is located near the Samana Peninsula, and it’s a part of a growing ecotourism industry in the Dominican Republic.

04_12_2010aLR

The SSV Corwith Cramer anchored in Samana Bay.

04_12_2010dLR

04_12_2010eLR

The great things about Los Haitises is that it is striking to the fashionable ec0-tourist interested in the finer details of the ecosystems in the Dominican Republic, but also to the casual ‘I-just-want-to-go-kayaking’ tourist. Being a combination of those two, I relished the beautiful tropical forest, the countless limestone keys and mangroves while kayaking around it all. A lot of information thrown our way was made the more interesting by our knowledgeable and friendly guide, Wilfredo.

The thing about Wilfredo, and most guides I encountered, was that they were not faking cheerfulness or interest. If they get tired of saying the same thing to tourists over and over, you can’t really tell, because they truly seem to enjoy explaining the surroundings, history and overall knowledge of their country. They seemed to get honestly excited about your excitement.

04_12_2010fLR
Wilfredo pauses to explain the greenery surrounding us.

Following our kayaking jaunt, we proceeding to caves within the keys, filled with giant stalactites and stalagmites. The formations inside the cave have unfortunately been tampered by years of tourist- and even reality TV-traffic — Petroglyphs and graffiti adorned the walls along with spiders that can have you dead in minutes.

04_12_2010ghLR

04_12_2010i_newLR

04_12_2010kLR

The Dominican Republic personifies the contradictions about the Caribbean. With its amazing blue waters and natural resources a short boat ride away from Samana, a city lacking basic infrastructure, where most citizens live without running water. Yet one thing that never failed us in our travel was the warmth of the people, who don’t dwell on contradictions or ironies. A couple of days is not enough time to truly savor the beautiful region of Samana, and when you’re there, you worry about when you won’t be. You’ll wonder “how can I continue living without the mangroves and the palm trees and the water?”, and that’s when you realize that you will, inevitably, return.

Moments galore

May 31st, 2010

On one of my days off in Jamaica, I returned to the Errol Flynn Marina late in the afternoon to find my shipmate Di, sitting by the pool on her laptop. Di belonged to Port Watch, which was on duty that day. The rules were that if your watch had duty, you could not leave the Marina.

After a few minutes of chatting, the conversation turned, as it inevitably did, to ice cream. Let’s be clear about something: one of the themes of the trip was HOT. Not hot. HOT. Oftentimes, you’d wake up in an embrace of sweat and, sometimes, rusty water from leaks in your bunk. While on port, one of the ways we placated the beast of heat and humidity was with regular offerings of ice cream. And conveniently enough there was an ice cream shop a short walk away from the Marina.

Di couldn’t go all the way there, but I offered to get her some ice cream. The Marina had a worker, whose name escapes me, who we’d see often cleaning around the pool area. He would always inquire about Tim B. with “hey, where’s my friend?” He offered to drive us to the ice cream place in the Marina’s golf cart.

It seemed like a sensible thing. I mean, ice cream can only last so long, and even a short walk would’ve turned it into a milkshake. So off we went, Tim B., myself and the Marina worker, riding past groups of people, some we knew, some we didn’t, in our unstoppable quest for a refreshing future.

Ice cream bought, I immediately realized: this is not good. We hadn’t even left the store and it was dripping. Yeah, yeah, I could have chosen a cup instead of cone, but I’ll be dammed, that was more money. And when money is represented to you in terms of hundreds of (Jamaican) dollars, well, everything just sounds more expensive than it probably is. So we try to rush back. Our Marina friend jumps on the golf cart, I’m riding shotgun, Tim B. holds on to the back for dear life and off we go. We’re flying by at maximum golf cart speed. Children jump out of the way, old people are perhaps run over. We will never know. The ice cream drips unmercifully while I hold it as far away as possible from me. The wind is making it worst, it melts rapidly, a trail of ice cream tears.

Di probably enjoyed about half an ice cream, because the other half was either on my hands or on Jamaican pavement.

I suppose it’s funny to envision what it must have looked like to innocent bystanders.

The worker at the Marina, who kindly participated in that spectacle was a funny, cheerful guy. He liked working at the Marina because that way he got to meet worldly people, he said. He’d like to do some traveling since he had never left Jamaica, but as it stood, being around people from other countries gave him a glimpse of far away places — far away places that he perhaps realistically knew, he would never get to see.

04_06_2010jLR

The reality is funny moments often overshadow the bad. Di, above, surely enjoyed her milkshake.

What I remember today is not the squeegeeing of floors and cleaning heads every three days. What I remember is

funny_1

JP wearing foul weather pants and harness but no shirt or jacket. Sauntering all day with a kiddie toolbelt during my Assistant Engineer day with Tom. One time when Lis was lookout and she totally missed a giant cargo ship till it was right next to us, and she comes walking back to the quarterdeck “hm, so I think you guys have seen this but there’s a ship right there.” Ha, too funny.

funny_2

Aliza asking who was with her on the fire hose during the Man Overboard drill. Hint: No one. Tim B. trying to wash the shower curtain in one of my favorite incidents (that I should post about at a later time, but trust me it was hilarious). And the time Jamaican rappers in Port Antonio cornered him for HOURS so he’d buy their album. He did.

funny_3

The time these fools were holding on (and getting a free ride) from Chelsea and mine’s kayak while we were unawares. And Chris falling off his kayak wearing his pirate hat and getting towed by Ashley.

funny_4

Me whispering to Ashley, who lived in the bunk above me: “Hey Ashley, Ashley, I can’t see if you’re in your bunk but just so you know, there’s a mattress coming your way.” That one time Kat Conway was being Kat Conway. Or when she was 30 degrees off course because of a conversation about The Office. “Oh God, oh God, 30 degrees off, help me”.

funny_5

How about the one time in rough seas when Sarah Dixon utterly refused to let go of her two snacks in order to hold on to something? Or Jeff poking his head out from the aft cabin window going “booby? where?” in response to someone saying they thought they had seen a brown booby.  And James arguing with an Assistant Scientist that an English String Vest was indeed a shirt and therefore within the bounds of lab rules (and decency).

There were so many more hilarious moments, and I thought that was a great way of representing the way Caribbean people seemed to live. Wherever I traveled, I encountered cheerful people who despite a trying history and circumstances, live bitterness free. Maybe people chose to remember the beautiful waters and weather they get to experience everyday, instead of the bad roads and lacking infrastructure.

After a break in my adventures, I hope to be back in Arizona on Wednesday to continue the next phase, whatever that might be. What I have realized is that I truly feel a connection with traveling, and talking and listening to people’s stories while documenting it all is some way.

Either way, whatever happens, it’ll be the next step in the adventure. For now, I have missed going to concerts, so hopefully while in Phoenix, there are some good bands playing in the area. Maybe at the Cave Creek Coffee Company. I could use nothing more than a Southwestern themed, cozy night under the stars with a live performance from an acoustic, folk artist.

04_06_10aLR

Maggie Magster and Tim A. look into the dusky blue Caribbean Sea.

saba_island_LR

Sunset over Saba.

04_24_2010e

A sweet moment between Sarah Dixon and Aliza in the Maroon community of Jamaica.

A little sailing video

May 22nd, 2010

During the transit from Key West to Charleston we were booking it with Force 6 winds and 7-8 foot seas. Here’s a little snippet. I’m now regretting not doing more video. Oh well.

I have started a running list of things to do and people to call/email to catch up with. For now I’m focusing on the web projects that I had to put on pause before the trip. Then I’m figuring out some job options on the horizon. Thanks to everyone who has given me leads on things happening at their papers.

IMG_0833_lr

Photo by Jeff Schell.

Here I am at the helm while going through the Haiti/Isle de Tortue passage. It would be cool to have a little get together in PHX when I get back. I could hook up the computer to a big screen TV and have a little viewing party with all my peeps there. It’d be a swell way to see everyone and share photos and tales of the high seas.

It’s good to be back, but I don’t know. I miss Cramer and my shipmates. Before we went to sea, we were warned that it usually takes some adjustment coming back to land. I thought that was baloney. Now though, I realize how true that statement turned out to be. Through all the good and bad, that was our world, and to not be in it… Well, it’s weird. The things that mattered, the boat checks, the wake-ups, the bells, are meaningless on land. I guess it’ll just take some time to figure out once again what are the things that matter.

DSC_0073LR

On the course yard. Photo by Maggie Welch.

Back to reality. Sort of.

May 12th, 2010

IMG_5791LR

vertical_at_sea1

04_17_2010gLR

05_04_2010bLR

05_04_2010gLR

IMG_3738LR

IMG_3924LR

Here at an internet cafe in Key West, just posting a few photos, catching up with “real” life. I don’t particularly want to because that usually means I have to make big girl decisions.

Hate those.

I’ve been working on Mother Cramer (aka our boat, in case I never mentioned it). Yesterday Kat Conway and myself climbed all the way to the top of the mainmast and tarred the heck out of the stays while perched on pretty much a swing. It was pretty crazy cool. And I’m not going to lie, there were moments such as the one where I had to actually get myself from the mast to the swing, dangling precariously feet from me, when I thought “Oh… shit.”

I’m sad that some of my shipmates are missing out on some of the really great moments here refitting Mother Cramer. I honestly think this should be part of the program. Bonding with the crew and focusing on the ship has really brought everyone together in a way not really possible while in the whole “student” mode.

Gotta run, I’ll try to get myself to the internet sometime before Friday, but don’t be surprised if I can’t. After all, I’ll have all the time in world for internet after next week. Right now, I’m just going to enjoy this world I’m living in, for as long as I can.

April 26th, 2010

This is a story about the people you meet when you travel. Their faces etched in photographs vainly attempting to capture one moment forever. A desperate attempt to hold on to people and places that you will mostly likely never see again. They are fleeting moments and encounters — a glimpse when all is set and done.

When we travel, we run into memories that we hope to remember when we’re old and done with life. We hope to remember the people who were kind to us, who loved us despite not knowing why they shouldn’t.

Amidst the poverty, I have seen no despair. I’m afraid to lose the stories about the people I have met. I’m afraid to forget the faces, the words.

Mrs. Margaret was an older lady who worked at the Whim Plantation. Her hair was tightly wrapped in a tall, white scarf. The scalding heat of midday prompted me to walk inside the plantation house after a tour, just to ask is there was anywhere I could get water. Free water, because I’m a spoiled person who is used to getting free tab water, I guess.

Mrs. Margaret said there was no free water, but bottled water could be purchased from the gift shop. ‘Eh,” I said, lying “I don’t have any money.” The heat not being as debilitating as to make me part from money. Yet the comment was all that Mrs. Margaret needed to offer me a dollar to buy the water. So there I was, mortified that I had unintentionally created a situation in which I, the tourist, the traveled American, was receiving money from a local woman in St. Croix. My cries of refusal fell on deaf ears. The more I declined, the more she insisted, reproaching why I would so adamantly not I accept money from her. What was wrong with her money? Why should she not offer it to an overheated, seemingly poor student? She argued that she was a mother and grandmother, and she understood.

I took her $1.

She wished me a Happy Easter. Along the way, I’ve found people capable of uncompromising kindness to strangers who have no right to receive it, as I had no right to receive Mrs. Margarate’s $1. Yet I did, and when I thought about it later, I wondered about the zeal behind such actions, the dutiful faith to a being that has promised eternal salvation for a lifetime of kindness. Is religion what moves the wonderful people I’ve met? With a predominantly Catholic population, the Caribbean people are certain very religious. Almost every building in Samana, Dominican Republic, had writings painted on the outside of the houses or stores with saying like “Christ is good. He is coming”, “Christ is love. He is the reward.”

This is just one example of the stories I’ve thought about, remembering the people who I have met. There are so many.

I did not get a photo of Mrs. Margaret because I had to leave quickly, so she wouldn’t see me crying.

Here are my vain attempts at remembering people who I’ve met and places I’ve seen.

04_24_2010cLR

04_24_2010dLR

04_24_2010aLR

04_24_2010hLR

04_24_2010iLR

04_24_2010flr

04_24_2010gLR